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Lloyd Webber Stage Makeup Tutorials (2)

"This face which earned a mother's fear and loathing; a mask, my first unfeeling scrap of clothing..."


The Phantom's appearance in Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber's 1986 stage musical (designed by Christopher Tucker) is an iconic image of pop culture. Even people who have never seen the musical know what that image represents. The Phantom's congenital condition (birth defect) affects the right side of his face and head. His lip is usually enlarged on the top (sometimes the bottom as well) and pulled upwards, his right cheek is twisted and misshapen. He has some kind of crater-like malformation on the side of his head. The Phantom also suffers from apparent alopecia, with sparse patches of wispy hair dotting the left side of his head.

This affliction varies slightly from each production, even within the production through the years. London in 2023 does not look like London from the 1980s; Broadway went through several variations during its 35-year run, and some of the world tour deformities were wildly different from the original London makeup. As the show ages and the Brilliant Original model slowly fades away, giving way to more non-replica productions, we are seeing more and more variation on the Phantom's makeup.

Like other versions of the makeup design, the ALW stage show inspires thousands of eager fans to attempt to replicate this memorable look. But for those who have never done stage or effects makeup before, this can be extremely intimidating. The two tutorials below offer two different approaches for different skill sets and budgets: one will use pre-made prosthetics, one will utilize liquid latex and cotton to be built up on the face in an "out of kit" style makeup. Scroll down if you are not using pre-made prosthetics.

Phantom Prosthetics

Prosthetics are pre-made applicances that are glued on to the actor's face, edges blended into the skin, and painted to match. Phantom prosthetics may be made out of slip (liquid) latex, foam latex, silicone, gelatin, or foam gelatin. Smaller appliances (for small wounds, zombie bites, lacerations, etc) are commonly made out of prosthetic adhesive transfer materials. ALW Phantom prosthetics typically consist of a lip/cheek piece, the "skull crater" and possibly a lower lip piece if desired.

Where to Purchase Prosthetics:  
Studio D FX (ships worldwide)
eBay: Phantomreplicas (ships worldwide)

Prosthetic Adhesives and Adhesive Removers:
While it is popular, I do not recommend using spirit gum to glue a prosthetic to your face. Always use medical grade adhesives such as Pros-Aide ("prosthetic adhesive") or a silicone-based adhesive such as Telesis to adhere the prosthetic. Spirit gum is too weak and often crystalizes quickly when exposed to sweat. Pros-Aide and Telesis last much longer and provide a much stronger/secure hold. Because silicone-based adhesives are generally very expensive, I highly recommend Pros-Aide as it is usually the same price (if not cheaper) than spirit gum. If using these stronger adhesives, you must use an adhesive remover such as Isopropyl Myristrate, Super-Solv, Bond-Off, etc. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) in a concentration of 91% or higher (found in drug stores, supermarkets, pharmacies, chemists) will also remove these adhesives, but will dry out the skin. If using IPA to remove glue, follow it up with a moisturizing treatment.

DO NOT pull prosthetics off your face without first dissolving the glue with one of the above solvents.

Applying a Bald Cap

Bald caps may be used if the cosplayer or actor wishes to do the "full" Phantom deformity as seen in Act II of the stage show, with the skull deformity and alopecia fully exposed. Bald caps may also be used if the cosplayer/actor has longer hair that they wish to conceal. Bald caps are made out of either latex or plastic/vinyl. Adhere them using either Pros-Aide or Telesis.
 
While latex/rubber bald caps are less expensive, thicker, and more durable, they are impossible to blend seamlessly into the skin. However, plastic caps, while thinner and more expensive, can be blended perfectly into the skin using acetone. This careful blending process makes it look as if the actor is truly bald, not just wearing a cap.

The video to the right beautifully demonstrates the application of a plastic bald cap. Bald caps are usually applied by a makeup artist or assistant. They can be applied on your own head by yourself, but it can be extremely difficult to get it to lay flat in the back.

Using a bald cap is not mandatory for Phantom makeup and cosplay.

Supplies:
- Prosthetics (from one of the suppliers listed above, or make your own using my prosthetic tutorial)
- Prosthetic adhesive (Pros-Aide, Telesis, or other medical-grade adhesive. NOT spirit gum)
- Adhesive remover (Bond-Off, Super-Solv, isopropyl myristrate, etc)
- Foundation Makeup (greasepaint, creme, water-based cake makeup, alcohol activated, etc)
- Translucent Setting Powder (for creme and greasepaint makeups) and powder puff(s)
- Contour: Eye liner/shadow for highlights/shadows (or cream makeup highlights/shadows)
- Lipstick/color
- Makeup wedges and/or beauty blenders
- Makeup brushes
- Disposables: cotton buds, cotton balls, makeup pads
- Fake or crepe hair to apply to create alopecia look
- Glue stick for brow blocking

Optional Supplies:
- Skin primer or barrier such as Telesis TopGuard (highly recommended)
- Zinc Oxide (reduces sweat underneath prosthetic)
- Setting Spray to prevent the final makeup from rubbing off

The Key to a Great Makeup? Edges

The most important part of a convincing three-dimensional makeup using prosthetics is the blending edge of the appliance. This is where the prosthetic meets and transitions into your actual skin. A good prosthetic, no matter the material (slip latex, foam latex, silicone, etc) will have a paper thin, irregular edge. Straight or smooth edges, or thick edges, attract the eye immediately and are a dead giveaway that there is a prosthetic on the face. It ruins the illusion. While the application and paint is important, none of that matters if the edges are poorly done.

Always be sure to protect the delicate edges of your prosthetic appliances by keeping them clean and stored flat until it's time for application.
 

Can Prosthetics Be Used More Than Once?

Generally speaking, no. It is tempting to purchase a decent set of prosthetics and use them multiple times throughout a convention season to save money. However, any appliance with a decent blending edge is never going to glue back down as smoothly as it does the first time. Good blending edges are so thin, so irregular, and so delicate, that cleaning them thoroughly enough to store and reapply is extremely difficult. As a result, they are likely to catch on themselves and fold, creating obvious creases. Additionally, using a prosthetic multiple times is somewhat unsanitary and not recommended.

Slip/slush (dried liquid) latex prosthetics are durable enough to be used multiple times if carefully removed and cleaned. However, foam latex and silicone facial applicances are too delicate and are strictly a one-time use only material. Foam latex also acts like a sponge and absorbs makeup, glue, and sweat. You don't want that glued back on your skin multiple times.
 

Types of Makeup and Foundations:

There are numerous options to choose from when it comes to selecting the type of makeup (foundation) to use. For beginners, cosmetic-grade foundations and eyeshadows (found at your local supermarkets, chemists, pharmacies, etc) can work and will cost less than the professional, theatrical or SFX grade products. Cosmetic foundations are thinner than theatrical grade makeup, and there therefore require more product for coverage.

Water-based ("cake") makeup is a good option and is relatively affordable. Requires translucent powder to set.

Cream/Creme makeups like Kryolan's TV Paint Stick (used in the actual Broadway production) are much thicker and offer great coverage. However, these will be more expensive than cosmetic grade makeup. Additionally, do NOT use creme makeups on latex prosthetic appliances without first applying Castor Sealer to the latex appliance. Because creme makeups lack the castor oil ingredient, they will begin to "eat" or breakdown the latex over time. Requires translucent powder to set.

Rubber Mask Grease Paint (RMGP) is heavy/thick like creme makeup, but specially formulated for use on latex applicances. This does not require Castor Sealer. Requires translucent powder to set.

Alcohol activated makeups are a great option if you want something that will not rub off or run. Does not require setting powder or setting spray, but does require 91% or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) to apply. AA makeup is very expensive compared to these other options.

Light and dark eyeshadow pallettes can be used for highlighting and shadowing to save money, instead of buying dedicated highlight and contour creme makeup wheels.

Applying Prosthetics
  1. Clean skin with soap/water and then apply witch hazel or TopGuard to remove any excess oils prior to placing prosthetics
  2. Place prosthetic on the face (no glue) until in desired position then apply translucent powder on the outside edge to outline where you want the appliance to go. Place the appliance back on the table
  3. Apply adhesive to center of prosthetic, being careful not to place glue near the delicate edges
  4. Place adhesive on your skin in the center where the prosthetic will go. Allow the adhesive to dry clear
  5. Place the prosthetic on the face and press gently, allowing the adhesive on the skin and prosthetic to bond
  6. Once center is secured, carefully place adhesive under the edge of the prosthetic in small sections, working your way around the prosthetic slowly and ensuring there are no gaps in the adhesive coverage
  7. Slip or foam latex prosthetics: Once appliance is completely glued down and edges smoothed, take pros-aide and cover over the top edge of the prosthetic into the skin. Allow dry.
  8. Press translucent powder into the dry pros-aide over top of the appliance edge. Brush off excess. This will help hide the edge and create a smoother blend into the skin
  9. Silicone prosthetics: dissolve/blend out the edges using a cotton bud dipped in acetone. Roll down and away from the center of the prosthetic to burn away the flashing and blend the appliance seamlessly into the skin
Finishing the Phantom Makeup
Lots of attention is given to the disfigured side of the face, but don't forget to give that left side the same effort and attention! A completed makeup is a believable makeup. The video above also discusses how to finish the "good" side of the face to tie the makeup together and give you that professional look.
 
  1. Blend the "good" side of the face with the prosthetics by applying the foundation makeup of choice to your bare skin and up into the prosthetic slightly. Powder if using greasepaint or creme makeup
  2. Contour cheeks, temples, jawline, and nose to reshape and age the face as desired. Non-male identifying cosplayers: search YouTube for genderswap (female to male) makeup tips
  3. Apply lip color as desired.
  4. Powder and seal finished makeup with setting spray to prevent/minimize smudges
  5. If doing alopecia look, apply alopecia wig or lay loose hair on bald cap
    1. LINK: Hair laying tutorial

 


Full Phantom Prosthetic Application - Instagram LIVE
The video below is the full three-hour Instagram LIVE held on 28 Dec 24 with fellow cosplayer, Remaining in Shadows. While long, this goes into great detail regarding the makeup supplies, application techniques, etc. If you have the time and are eager to learn, this is well worth the watch.
 




Photos below are the Studio D FX "Original Crawford" prosthetics, painted and applied by me at MusicalCon 2023:


Applying "Out of Kit" Latex/Cotton (no prosthetics)

Utilize this technique if you do not have any pre-made prosthetics to use.


Warnings:
*  DO NOT USE LATEX IF YOU HAVE A LATEX ALLERGY
* Avoid getting liquid latex in your hair or clothing.  It is difficult/impossible to remove! 
* Avoid using Barrier Spray or No-Sweat spray around your eyes
* Allow about two hours from start to finish


Supplies:
- Liquid Latex
- Cotton balls
- Foundation Makeup (greasepaint, creme, water-based, etc)
- Translucent Setting Powder (for creme and greasepaint makeups)
- Eye liner/shadow for highlights/lowlights (or cream makeup highlights/lowlights)
- Lipstick/color
- Makeup sponges
- Sponge paint brushes or cheap/disposable paint brushes
- School glue for brow blocking

Optional Supplies:
- Castor Sealer (for creme makeup)
- ProFace No-Sweat Spray
- Prosthetic adhesive (such as Telesis, Pros-Aide, medical adhesive, etc....requires remover)
- Barrier/Setting Spray

Types of Makeup and Foundations:
There are numerous options to choose from when it comes to selecting the type of makeup (foundation) to use. For beginners, cosmetic-grade foundations and eyeshadows (found at your local supermarkets, chemists, pharmacies, etc) can work and will cost less than the professional, theatrical or SFX grade products. Cosmetic foundations are thinner than theatrical grade makeup, and there therefore require more product for coverage.

Water-based ("cake") makeup is a good option and is relatively affordable. Requires translucent powder to set.

Cream/Creme makeups like Kryolan's TV Paint Stick (used in the actual Broadway production) are much thicker and offer great coverage. However, these will be more expensive than cosmetic grade makeup. Additionally, do NOT use creme makeups on latex prosthetic appliances without first applying Castor Sealer to the latex appliance. Because creme makeups lack the castor oil ingredient, they will begin to "eat" or breakdown the latex over time. Requires translucent powder to set.

Rubber Mask Grease Paint (RMGP) is heavy/thick like creme makeup, but specially formulated for use on latex applicances. This does not require Castor Sealer. Requires translucent powder to set.

Alcohol activated makeups are a great option if you want something that will not rub off or run. Does not require setting powder or setting spray, but does require 91% or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) to apply. AA makeup is very expensive compared to these other options.

Light and dark eyeshadow pallettes can be used for highlighting and shadowing to save money, instead of buying dedicated highlight and contour creme makeup wheels.

Covering Eyebrows:
Cover your eyebrows to protect them from coming into contact with the wet latex ("brow blocking"). Latex does not come out of hair, so if you plan on using liquid latex on/around the brows, you must complete this step. This is easily done with school glue stick and powder. To learn how, please watch this excellent brow blocking tutorial by Alexandra Anele.


Creating the Stage Disfigurement
1.  Start with a clean face (block out brow first if using latex near/on your eyebrow)
2.  Pour small amount of liquid latex onto disposable plate or dish (after allowing it to sit in the open bottle for a moment to allow ammonia smell to dissipate) and dip sponge brush into it
3.  Use the sponges or sponge paint brushes to apply in thin layers to desired area (in my case the cheek, around the nose/mouth, and just under the jaw)
4.  Rip cotton balls into desired size and roll pieces of cotton in latex
5.  Apply to face in desired areas and allow to dry
6.  Apply several layers of latex over the cotton to help smooth and secure it
7.  Once finished with latex applications, apply Castor Sealer to latex (ONLY if using creme makeup) and allow to sit for at least 10 minutes, then wipe it off
8.  Apply foundation makeup with sponge
9.  Apply setting powder to help set the creme or greasepaint makeup and prevent it from smudging
10.  Create highlights/lowlights using eye liner and eye shadow to desired effect (if using cream highlights/shadows, powder after each color)
11.  Apply lip color as desired.
12.  Spray setting spray over face and all areas covered by makeup to prevent it from rubbing off (consider using cotton balls to apply the setting spray in order to prevent it from getting in the eyes)

* Apply prosthetic adhesive to glue the edges back down if/when latex separates from the skin (remove using an adhesive remover or 90+% Isopropyl Alcohol)
* To remove the latex (with no adhesive), simply peel off.  Remove foundation makeup with makeup remover cloths, cold cream, etc
* If using gelatin to cover eyebrows or as a substitute for the latex, see the gelatin tutorial for instructions